Friday, 1 November 2019


Patagonia is too beautiful.
From the aeroplane, mountains and forests stretch away forever, enough for a lifetime of exploring even before you board a boat on the Beagle.
One of my favourite trees in Tasmania is the deciduous beech or fagus (we took mum to see them last autumn at Cradle), and it's everywhere here, which I once read is evidence that Tassy and Patagonia were once linked.
The whole place feels very much like Tassy, only with serious mountains. There are heaps of beautiful forest walks just out of town, and I'd lucked accomodation at the very architecturally hip new Arakur spa with the most amazing views out over the Beagle from the horizon pool towards the uninhabited islands and mountains of Chile.
Once you book a berth on Iceaxe, you're perfectly free to organise your own guide - otherwise if you're from Oz you're best to just contact Bill Barker of Bill's Trips who's the head of ski patrol at Hotham. Bill has a bunch of great guides he uses in Kashmir and he tends to farm folks into groups of four based on their experience and abilities.
Many of the US guides are household names if you've grown up reading the same ski magazines as me. Lucky us, we scored kiwi legend Mark Sedon.
Before jumping on the boat there are a bunch of fun social gatherings in Ushuaia, and a mandatory day of training for glacial travel up on the Martial Glacier in the mountains behind.
Our day started out snowing but soon turned bluebird, and there was a stack of terrain on offer - in fact there's a very decent ski resort around the corner with heaps of vertical and ocean views.
We climbed up to a Col at around 1000m with stunning views, before a pleasant ski back towards the Beagle Channel.


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